As you approach highway speeds – 60 mph and above – feeling your car shaking is incredibly unsettling. Thankfully, it’s most likely a simple fix, although you should get it checked as soon as possible.
The average passenger vehicle in the US weighs in at around 4,156 pounds (1,885 kg). That’s according to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).
At 60 mph, your vehicle would produce 50,560 kgs-1 of momentum – enough to do some considerable damage to anything. As such, it’s essential to keep it under control.
If you feel your car shaking when going over 60 mph, don’t panic. Decelerate and move into the sluggish lane next to the shoulder so you’re ready to pull over if an emergency arises.
In the meantime, softly make your way to a nearby mechanic or tire workshop.
So, why is your automobile shaking when you’re going over 60 mph? Why doesn’t it vibrate at lower speeds? Read on to learn more.
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Causes Of Car Shaking When Going Over 60 MPH
There are several reasons your car could be shaking at 60 mph.
The most likely – by far – is unbalanced wheels, especially at the front. Several other options are possible but improbable.
Unbalanced Wheels (Unbalanced Tires)
Wheel balancing is regularly done before your tires are refitted. Weights are added to the metal rim to ensure the wheel rotates evenly without “wobbling.”
You can visualize an unbalanced wheel and tire by taking a roll of tape and rolling it across the floor. Watch it sway from side to side.
Imbalanced tires behave the same way. As the wheel turns, the tire wobbles, putting extra pressure on the inside and then the outside of the tread. You might notice an irregular wear pattern.
Wheels can become hazardous by:
- Losing weights
- Sustaining damage (such as hitting a curb)
- Not being balanced (or balanced correctly) when they were fitted
A technician should balance your wheels after they fit a new tire or repair a puncture. They’ll use a specific machine ingeniously named a tire balancer.
They may also offer to balance your wheels as part of a routine service (recommended). It should cost about $10 to $15 per wheel. Other issues contributing to wheel balancing include damaged rims and incorrectly fitted tires.
Why Can I Only Notice Unbalanced Wheels At 60 MPH?
At low speeds, an unbalanced wheel makes the tire rock ever so slightly. It’s scarcely noticeable at all. You won’t be able to see it with the naked eye, either.
As you reach higher speeds, the “wobbling” accelerates. Once you’re traveling fast enough, the swaying becomes more of a pounding. This is the tire’s inner edge smashing against the road surface, then the exterior, and so on.
This banging will come through as trembling and vibration. The whole car will shake, but it’ll be most intense through the steering wheel.
You can be certain that at least one wheel is affected – possibly two or more. It’s most likely to be one of the front wheels, but it could be one at the rear. This would be especially true if your vehicle is rear-wheel-drive.
Unbalanced tires shouldn’t be an immediate hazard. However, you should still pull into the slow lane and drive as slowly as safely possible. Around 50 mph is a good benchmark – the minimum speed you’re allowed to travel on the interstate is 40 mph).
Go to a local mechanic to have them examined and rebalanced.
Don’t be surprised if you need a new tire. The damage should be negligible in most instances, provided you catch it early. But if it’s been going on for a while, you’ll need some new rubber.
Suspension Components
Unless you have a heavy-duty truck or van, the main part of your front suspension is the MacPherson strut. This includes a structure, damper (shock absorber), and coil spring. Other components include the drop link, wishbone, and tie rods.
The spring and damper are most likely to fail. Coil springs can fail due to rust or a significant impact like a deep pothole. Dampers (or “shocks”) can leak hydraulic fluid or lock up. These could lead to an uncomfortable ride, even if it’s only on one wheel.
You might feel more shaking at 60 mph, especially on less maintained, bumpier highways. If the suspension is the root cause, the ride might feel either rigid or bouncy (all the time, not just at high speeds).
You can check your own suspension by doing a bounce test. Taking your car to a local mechanic would be more exhaustive, though. They can then do a more detailed check on a designated ramp.
Depending on the precise issue, suspension repair costs could be up to a few hundred dollars.
Developing Engine Misfire
When a cylinder misfires, it isn’t combusting the air/fuel mixture. Therefore, there’s no power stroke. This results in diminished power output and an irregular engine, causing vibration.
Engine misfires can happen at any time and at any frequency. In fact, they’re often most apparent at low speeds and when the car is idling. However, you might still detect them at 60 mph.
If the issue only arises at highway speeds, it’s most likely to happen under severe engine pressure. This means driving at 60 mph in the lowest gear possible. It could also occur when putting your foot down and accelerating to merge or overtake.
Since it isn’t misfiring under regular loads, it’s logical to assume that the misfire is caused by a part that’s deteriorating – rather than one that’s failed already. The Check Engine light should pop up on your instrument panel, too.
When an engine misfires, you should use an OBD II code reader to find the issue. The basic cause could be any of the following in this non-comprehensive list:
- Spark plugs
- Ignition coils
- Throttle body
- Fuel injectors
- Fuel pump
- Vacuum leaks
Faulty sensors sending inaccurate information to the ECU
Wheel Bearing
The internet is full of forums discussing how wheel bearings break left, right, and center. And they do fail – occasionally. However, it’s rather infrequent. Most wheel bearings will outlast the vehicle they’re fitted to.
A wheel bearing could break if you hit a curb with some force or frequently drive on subpar roads. You’ll probably hear a constant whining noise or intermittent groaning coming from the wheel in question.
For a final check, jack up the wheel and try to rock it with your hands at 12 and 6 o’clock. There should be slight play. If it’s loose, the wheel bearing is the most probable culprit.
Wheel bearing problems typically come into play while turning your wheel. If you only notice shaking while going round bends or lane-changing at 60 mph, get it inspected.
Expect to pay $300 to $400, including labor.
Axle Damaged Or Imbalanced
Like wheel bearings, axle problems are over-exaggerated in terms of their prevalence. For most vehicles, the axle will never be touched throughout its complete lifespan.
On rare occasions, the axle might become unstable or take damage from a pothole or something substantial and heavy in the road (like a rock or large branch). This could lead to the car shaking.
The problem is most likely an unbalanced rear axle, particularly if your car is rear-wheel-drive. Although it’ll feel unpleasant around 60 mph, you’ll probably notice it no matter how fast you’re going.
Rebalancing an axle or driveshaft could be up to $200. A new part altogether could be anywhere from $500 to $1,000.
Note: these days, most cars are front-wheel-drive and use half-shaft axles. These are unlikely to make a car shake, even if they’ve already started to break. You’re more likely to hear a ticking sound when turning.
Could Bad Wheel Alignment (Tracking) Cause My Car To Shake At Over 60 MPH?
It’s extremely unlikely!
Misaligned wheels (a mechanic might tell you, “Your tracking’s out”) are often mentioned on the web as being a cause for a trembling car. Perhaps in the rarest of cases… but 99% of the time? No.
When your tracking’s out, it’s likely to cause the vehicle to pull either left or right. At least one of your front (steering) tires isn’t pointing straight ahead. Find a long, vacant stretch of road and hold your steering wheel level. Does the vehicle veer to one side or the other?
Occasionally, misaligned tires don’t make your car pull to one side. This would be if the tracking were only marginally out, or the two wheels pointed towards or away from each other at the identical angle. In this case, both tires need realigning and could need to be replaced.
The most notable indication of your tracking being out is tire wear down the inside or outside of the tread. You’ll notice a bare strip of rubber. At this point, the tire is damaged beyond repair and will need replacing.
Poor wheel alignment shouldn’t make your car shake. The following is a good general rule:
- If your car is shaking, you need balancing.
- If the steering is pulling, you need tracking.
Concluding Thoughts: Why Does Your Car Shake When Going Over 60 MPH?
By far, the most probable reason is unbalanced tires. You should take your car to a local mechanic or tire shop to get them rebalanced and refitted.
Beforehand, make sure the technician checks the tires are in proper condition. They may need replacing if the issue has been going on for a while.
If your wheels turn out to be adequate, there’s something else at play. Of everything mentioned in this article, explore them in the following order of probability:
- Wheel balancing
- Suspension components
- Developing engine misfire
- Wheel bearings
- Axles
Seek professional assistance to ensure it gets fixed for good. Encourage the mechanic to take the car for a road test to feel for the issue themselves, too.
Although it might be unsettling and, yes, must be fixed as soon as possible, the problem should be controllable. It’s comparatively inexpensive in most situations, too.
